Bright White, Big City
The Age
Saturday September 5, 1998
MOUNT BULLER boss and building giant Rino Grollo once walked down Bourke Street in his boxer shorts when he lost a bet that Mount Buller would get a foot of fresh snow overnight.
But the Bourke Street of his chilling dare wasn't in the middle of Melbourne, it was on Grollo's beloved Mount Buller.
Bourke Street, Mount Buller, is the heart and soul of the mountain and is as much a part of the resort as World Cup aerials champion Kirstie Marshall, the police speed patrols hiding behind the trees outside Mansfield, and the four-wheel drives that transport you up the last stretch of mountain road between carpark and resort.
Strictly speaking, Bourke Street isn't a street at all, but a wide and long "green" slope where thousands of skiers and boarders have made their first tentative turns on snow. Over several decades, Mount Buller has developed around Bourke Street, which is now lined with cafes, restaurants, lodges, hotels, shops, ski schools and even a supermarket.
In the early days, the resort also had Lonsdale Street and Swanston Street, but it was Bourke Street that prevailed as the other "streets" disappeared.
The first lift on the slope was the Ski Club of Victoria rope tow in 1949. In 1959, Blue Lifts installed a T-bar that ran until 1968, and in 1961, the rival Orange Lifts installed a double rope tow that operated until 1963. Blue Lifts hit back in 1964, with the installation of a chairlift that was Doppelmayr's first double chairlift in the world.
The South Australian company, McMahon Holdings, purchased the majority of Blue Lifts in 1983 and formed the Bourke Street Ski Lift Company, which then installed the two Blue Bullet high-speed chairlifts in 1984.
Snowmaking was piped on to Bourke Street for the first time in 1993, improving its reliability as a testing ground for novices and as a major thoroughfare of the mountain that hosts everything from spectacular Team Buller aerials performances to night carnivals.
Recently, more than 2000 school children gathered for the Victorian Interschools night carnival to listen to live music, a flare run and fireworks.
With so much happening along this great white strip, we went in search of the best of everything. Here are the results.
Best restaurants
Pension Grimus, Mount Buller Chalet's Black Cockatoo restaurant, and Nooky's at the Arlberg are the standout dining experiences within a snowball throw of Bourke Street. Nooky's prides itself on an extensive wine list and a cosy cellar bar.
Best place for coffee
In fine weather, the balcony at the Abom is a great setting for a cappuccino, or try the bar at the Mount Buller Chalet, which has a big open fireplace and cosy couches.
Best nightlife 1
The Kooroora. It's dark, it's loud, it rocks into the early hours and it has been there almost as long as the resort itself. Live bands play at least three times a week and a DJ is there other nights. Counter meals are served.
Best nightlife 2
Bourke Street is lit up for night skiing from 7.30 to 10pm every Wednesday and Saturday. The Arlberg Hotel's dining room overlooking the slope is especially popular on these nights because it allows parents to watch their children whizz by. The dining room serves meals at hotel prices.
Best Sunday lunch
Austrian-influenced Pension Grimus has views over Bourke Street. Lunch is by a crackling fire. Try the roast pork and sauerkraut with a bottle of white.
Best accommodation
The Mount Buller Chalet aims to offer the best in everything - dining, service, accommodation, and facilities that include an indoor heated swimming pool, spa, gym, squash courts and basketball.
Also of superior standard is Pension Grimus, hosted and operated by mountain legend Hans Grimus who turns on the hospitality and schnapps like no one else.
The Arlberg Hotel has family-style budget accommodation near the top of Bourke Street that places you within easy reach of ski slopes, lifts, the ski school, restaurants and bars.
Best alpine antiques
Rino Grollo has amassed an amazing collection of antiques, ranging from wooden skis, sleds, bamboo poles and even a stuffed polar bear. It's all on show at the Abom restaurant. It's like walking into a museum but is free.
Most famous skiers
Prince Charles has skied down Bourke Street and so have Mel Gibson, John Farnham, Shirley Strachan and Crackers Keenan.
Worst aspect of Bourke Street
Even such a famous street must have its drawbacks, and the biggest problem with this street is that it can become extremely crowded on weekends. Sometimes, you would swear you are in Bourke Street, outside Myer, but everyone is rushing by with a couple of planks stuck to their legs!
If you want to try Bourke Street or any other ski run in Victoria this season, you better be quick. The snow season is in meltdown and desperately needs another big dump of snow.
Conditions are still OK in some places for beginners and intermediates, but advanced skiers may as well hang up their skis for the year.
Latest snow conditions are available from 1902 240 523, or take a look at:
www.skibuller.com.au or www.hotham-fallscreek.com.au
© 1998 The Age
